The Switch

Flexibility, time and time again, is proved an essential virtue of the Peace Corps. Because I was unable to visit my site last month due to extensive flooding, the Peace Corps sent a team down to my area to make sure everything was prepared for my arrival. Unfortunately, while the people of my village were prepared to do whatever they could for me, not everything was ready, because they are understandably continuing to reestablish themselves after the devastating flood. The Peace Corps, however, found another site in the same river system that was preparing for a volunteer next year, but is ready now. Eventually it was decided that a married couple in my class switch to this site, and I take their place at Diitabiki. The Gaanman (paramount chief) of the Aucan people lives in this village, and living there will be a great opportunity to learn and help in any way I can. As my site has a long history of complex tradition, I was given a protocol book with everything I need to know from how to shake hands correctly to the roles of the many types of traditional Aucan leaders. I may also have the opportunity to work with UNICEF and their schools project, which the Peace Corps estimates will occupy a quarter of my time. Given the situation, I am happy, and humbled to serve in Diitabiki.

Okanisi Tongo

For the past months I have been learning Aucan in a combination of language classes and community immersion. Aucan is a simple but beautiful and extremely flexible language. Below are some of my favorite words and phrases that gives a flavor of Aucan.

My site, Drietabiki is literally “Three Islands,” or “Expensive Islands,” and as I understand, the Gaanman allows for either translation.

The word “Faya” (like “fire” but with a “y”), besides being fun to say, means everything from fire to light to electricity to flashlight to heat to light bulb, and can be used in any context just to add emphasis.

It makes you sound like Captain Jack Sparrow. The word “sabi” means to know or understand, but all “v’s” in Aucan are changed to “b’s” (Cassaba, Libi, Liba), so adding “sabi” onto everything, especially introductions, can be very entertaining (I’m Michael Brannagan, sabi?).

It makes you sound like Jar Jar Binks. Phrases like “Mi sa go ini busi” (I shall go into the bush). Mi na’ wani wasi koosi (I don’t want to wash clothes), and “Yu meke mi booya” (You’re confusing me) are really fun to say.

The word for “to eat” and the word for “food.” To eat is “nyan” and food is “nyan-nyan.” So, “I want to eat food” is “Mi wani nyan nyan-nyan.”

“Koo” can either mean cold or turtle.

The word “meti” means and is derived from “meat.” It is also, by no coincidence whatsoever, the word for animal or, as there is no other word for it, bacteria. So when you ask what kind of animal something is, you ask “what kind of meat is that?” Many Aucans, as I am, are willing to eat almost everything.

A Note on Updates

I have been in rather remote areas of Suriname and completely out of touch for about the last month. In fact, I had to hold on to a handwritten letter for almost a full month before I could send it. Several times, however, I wrote down blog entrys on paper so that when I had access to a computer I could make several posts at once, and that is why the dates are all in the past. Feel free to read the latest four at your leisure. The one on government acronyms is especially good, if I may say so myself.


Also, check out some of my pictures at http://picasaweb.google.com/michael.brannagan/Suriname

The American Suburbanite’s Guide to Bushwhacking

During this week all but five of my colleagues have been visiting their future sites. Several of us, however, will be living in villages that have experienced severe flooding as of late, so we will be unable to see where we will serve before we swear in. I have thus been in Paramaribo, the capital city (THE city, really), participating in other projects. For the past few days we have been trained in rain forest agriculture by a Dutch man and his Surinamese wife who cultivate a small organic “farm” in the jungle.
Yesterday we cleared bush. This requires two vital tools: boots, and a machete. The boots are quite regular black rubber boots, but with all the dangerous plants, fire ants and snakes in the forest, they really make it easy. Plus, you can ford rivers (or avoid getting wet in hidden swampy holes) up to your knees, and if you are like me and get a little carried away with a machete sometimes, good boots can save a leg. Machetes are a little more complicated, but the most important thing to remember is to get one from a country other than China. I chose an English manufacturer—a Martindale, called a “Cayman” for its engraved Crocodile on the blade. It is bigger than your average machete, twenty-eight inches long with a wide head (about five inches). This makes it good for both mowing (cutting ground vines and brush) and cutting forest (cutting practically anything bigger, including small trees). Mowing is done by swinging from the outside in, and cutting forest from across the body. You can also use a machete to harvest banana by cutting down the stalks and cassava by using the blade to dig and cut the tubers. In a humid climate, machetes naturally start to rust a little in the beginning, but with regular use, they eventually turn black, and the rust goes away.

In addition to its advantages in preparing planting grounds, bushwhacking is a great stress reliever and form of exercise. Naturally, you look like you had just been swimming when you finish clearing a section of bush, but in a country where the effort of eating makes you sweat, you get used to it.